Northern OR: Coastal Wonders
After getting Bessie (our trusty van) inspected at Mercedes in Beaverton—verdict: “minimal leak, Thor has to fix it” (translation: another service appointment down the coast, probably near Eugene)—we finally pointed her west. There’s nothing like leaving the freeway sprawl and rolling toward the salty air of the Pacific.
Seaside Promenade
Our first stop: Seaside, Oregon’s original resort town. Families have been vacationing here since the early 1900s, drawn by the wide sandy beach, the salt air, and the iconic 1920s promenade that runs a mile and a half along the ocean. But this is more than just saltwater taffy and arcades—back in 1805, the Lewis & Clark expedition boiled seawater here to make salt for preserving meat. Standing on the boardwalk, you can almost imagine the crew, weary from months of trudging, seeing the Pacific for the first time. History meets beach strolls.
Cannon Beach
By late afternoon, we reached Cannon Beach, famous for its artsy vibe, boutique shops, and that giant celebrity rock—Haystack Rock, a 235-foot sea stack that graces countless calendars. Kodi raced headlong into the Pacific like she’d been waiting her whole life for this exact moment. I combed Haystack with my camera, hoping for puffins, but learned those quirky orange-beaked cuties already left in April. Instead, gulls and albatross strutted like they owned the place.
Back near the van, I spotted Alchemy Lounge / McGregor’s Whiskey Bar. Cue Jim Morrison: “Show me the way to the next whiskey bar.” Inside: Black Manhattans, cherry-kissed Old Fashioneds, and what turned out to be the best burgers of the trip.
So smitten, we booked a night in the historic Cannon Beach Hotel, staying in the McAbee Cottage—a cozy, wine-included indulgence. The desk clerk whispered: “Go to Hug Point at low tide.” At dawn, I found myself clambering over rocks to a tiny waterfall, tide pools, and a sea cave once used as a stagecoach route before Highway 101 existed. History literally carved into the cliff.
Ecola State Park & Indian Beach
Next came Ecola State Park, perched on bluffs with sweeping views of Tillamook Rock Lighthouse (“Terrible Tilly,” retired in 1957 and now a seabird sanctuary). Indian Beach itself is surfer heaven—and a movie star. Film buffs will recognize it from Twilight (the La Push beach scenes), Point Break (Keanu Reeves and Patrick Swayze’s final surf showdown), and The Goonies. Cue nostalgia.
Arcadia & Short Sand (Shorty’s) Beaches
We carried on to Arcadia Beach, smaller and less crowded, with tide pools and dramatic basalt cliffs. Then came Short Sand Beach, tucked inside Oswald West State Park. To get there, you hike a half-mile through old-growth rainforest—mossy cedars and Sitka spruce—before the trail suddenly spills you onto sand. Surfers were already slicing waves when we arrived. This was one of those “yes, this is why we travel” moments.
Tillamook Creamery
After salt air and sand, it was time for cheese. Tillamook Creamery is both dairy shrine and roadside attraction. You can watch the factory floor, learn about dairy co-op history, and yes, meet (cardboard cutouts of) the cows. The highlight? Ice cream. Espresso Chip for me, Chocolate Almond Fudge for Alan, with cheese curds stashed for later.
Cape Meares & Rockaway Beach
Our quest for Cape Meares Lighthouse turned comical—8-mile detours to find closures at every turn. Sometimes you just let it go. Instead, we landed in Rockaway Beach, a retro coastal town with seven miles of sand and the vintage Oregon Coast Scenic Railroad puffing past, passengers waving from the open-air car. Through Garibaldi, once a lumber-and-fishing hub, we soaked in pioneer history under the kind of moody gray skies that make Oregon feel quintessentially Oregon.
Pacific City & Cape Kiwanda
By lunchtime, we hit Pacific City, home to Pelican Brewery—where ocean spray practically mists your fish & chips. Across the way, Cape Kiwanda rises in rust-colored sandstone cliffs, famous for its giant dune climb and dramatic dory boats launched straight from the beach. A true Oregon original.
Devil’s Punchbowl & Depoe Bay
Next stop: Devil’s Punchbowl, a collapsed sea cave where the ocean churns itself into a froth. Mesmerizing. Then Depoe Bay, the “whale watching capital of the Oregon Coast.” Its harbor, the smallest navigable natural harbor in the world, has appeared in films (One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest was partly shot here). Add quirky shops, saltwater taffy, and a Conde McCullough bridge, and it’s pure coastal charm.
Agate Beach & Newport
At Agate Beach, we pulled a U-turn and spotted a Best Western—a sign from the travel gods that it was time to crash. But first: dinner at the Bistro at Newport inside. Expectation: standard hotel food. Reality: fine-dining nirvana. My salmon over pea risotto deserves a sonnet; Alan’s black cod and chowder were equally divine. Every bite flawless.
So here’s to the North Oregon Coast: history, hidden caves, moody skies, cheesy detours, surf culture, whiskey bars, and the surprise of world-class dining where you least expect it. And thank you, Best Western—you outdid yourself.
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