Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

Montrose County, Colorado

From Telluride, we took the gondola ride up to Mountain Village, gliding silently above the aspens—gold coins shimmering in the wind. From there, we wound our way north through Montrose, bound for the South Rim of Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. The drive was smooth and scenic, the kind where you lose track of time and just stare out at the mountains changing shape with every mile.

The 7-mile Rim Drive, which follows the edge of the canyon with twelve breathtaking overlooks. Standing on those viewpoints, it’s easy to see why the place is called Black Canyon—the rock walls drop nearly 2,000 feet straight down, so steep that sunlight rarely reaches the river below. The air carried that cool alpine stillness, broken only by a hawk’s cry echoing off the stone.

At the small General Store near the entrance, a friendly clerk suggested we visit the North Rim Ranger Station for a Passport Stamp—the kind of insider tip I live for. By late afternoon, we checked into the Wingate in Gunnison, a clean, quiet refuge for the night. Dinner was simple but perfect—fresh baguette and deli meats from Safeway, eaten picnic-style in our room while Kodi snoozed under the table.

Morning brought us to Crested Butte for breakfast at Butte Bagels—steaming coffee, warm bagels, and lots of locals swapping stories at the counter. From there we took County Road 12, better known as the Kebler Pass, a 30-mile ribbon of dirt and gold weaving through one of the largest aspen groves in North America. The leaves shimmered like coins in the sunlight, and every turn felt like driving through a living painting.

Looping back toward Gunnison, we detoured north to reach the North Rim of the Black Canyon, this time to hike the short Chasm View Trail—a stunning overlook into the canyon’s narrowest depths. We finally found that elusive North Rim Passport Stamp at the tiny ranger station (victory!), while the nearby campground buzzed with climbers hauling ropes and gear toward the sheer black cliffs below.

It was one of those perfect travel days—wild beauty, small victories, and the kind of peace that only comes from taking the long way around.