Mount Shasta

California

Driving into Shasta City, you can’t believe your eyes—the view is all Mount Shasta. A solitary volcano soaring 14,179 feet into the sky, it rises straight from the flatlands like something conjured. I’d read about her online: a mountaineering icon, a sacred place believed by many Native American tribes to be the center of the universe, and—according to legend—the hiding place of a secret city of enlightened beings living beneath her peak. As we rolled into town, it was clear we’d crossed into a new-age enclave of crystal shops, yoga studios, and mountain mystics.

We booked a room at The Shasta Inn (shastainn.com) on our way in and weren’t disappointed. The rustic-chic lodge glowed with wood beams, cozy lighting, and the aroma of dinner drifting from its on-site Harvest Restaurant, which served hearty comfort food and local wine. Our server, friendly and chatty, gave us the local scoop on hikes and waterfalls worth chasing.

The next morning, we stopped at the ranger station. I told Ranger Dave I wanted to hike as far up Shasta’s face as possible. He smiled and said, “Drive up to the Old Ski Bowl—it’s the highest you can go by car. Start from there.” Then he added, “If you’ve got time, head west to McCloud Falls—three tiers of beauty. You can drive to each or hike the full trail.”

It turned out to be a perfect day. Alan set up base camp at the trailhead while Kodi trotted beside me up the rocky slope until we hit a sprawling boulder field where paws couldn’t go further. Later we drove to McCloud Falls, photographing the lower, middle, and upper cascades, each one framed by lava rock and misty spray. With more time you can spend several days chasing waterfalls:Potem Falls, Montgomery Creek Falls, Burney Falls,Faery Falls, Hedge Falls, Mossbrae Falls, Burstarse Falls, Root Creek Falls, Boulder Creek Falls, Whiskeytown Falls and Crystal Creek Falls…stop by the Ranger Station for directions!

That evening we crossed the street to Casa Ramos Mexican Restaurant, a lively spot packed with locals swapping stories over margaritas. Between bites of enchiladas and laughter with strangers, someone at the next table leaned over and said, “Before you leave town, stop by City Park—see the headwaters of the Sacramento River. It’s magic.”